Saturday 8 November 2008

going native

...for LeavingSA.com

Dubai is the second largest of the 7 emirates that make up the UAE, Abu Dhabi is the capital. The population was estimated at 1.2 million people in 2005, most of these are expatriates, or expats for short. In fact it is thought that there are up to 180 different nationalities represented here, and whilst the official language is Arabic, mostly everyone speaks, and sometimes even understands, English (luckily for me). The official min/max temperatures here for this month of Autumn (ahem) are 18° and 30° Celsius. That's good, no really it is. The currency here, at least for the time being, is the dirham. This is also known as the Emirati Dirham, the UAE Dirham or an Arabian Emirates Dirham (AED). Needless to say price tags are seen in various combinations including AED or Dhs. I have even seen $ and £ price tags in some stores, this can make shopping challenging when you have to do quick maths in your head (thank goodness cellphones have calculators). However as the Dirham is still pegged to the dollar at a constant exchange rate of 1USD = 3.67AED this is made somewhat easier. Our timezone here is GMT+4. As you may have gathered our weekends are Fridays and Saturdays, which still feels weird even now. 5 times a day you will hear the Muzzien's call to prayer floating over houses and gardens, or echoing off skyscrapers and office blocks, depending on where you are at the time. Last week my return to the office in downtown Dubai coincided with prayer time and as I walked from the car park along the street I could hear 4 or 5 different Muzzien voices overlapping; the sounds alternately merging with and then chasing one another down the gaps between the buildings. It was quite hauntingly beautiful actually.

As I have said before it is important to remember and respect the local customs, we are after all visitors here. The traditional dress for Emirati men is an ankle-length robe with long sleeves, called a kandura, whilst women wear an over-garment called an abaya which covers everything except their face, feet and hands. Further coverings of the face, hands and even the eyes are added as desired. This is partly the reason some local Emiratis tint their car windows as dark as possible, it allows the women in the family to uncover their heads and faces without being seen. It is possible for foreigners to buy these traditional garments in Dubai, but remember not to wear them here as this is considered to be highly insulting to the locals.

"Culture shock is the most normal reaction any person can undergo when moving from one environment to another. In a recent study I found that some 64% of the sample studied had undergone culture shock even though no effort was spared in preparing these expatriates in terms of relocation help, logistical assistance, cross-cultural training and pre-visits to the country.

Most people when being told that they are going overseas will undergo a period of apprehension, anticipation and excitement simultaneously. ... Once the exciting period is over, certain realities begin to hit home. Missing family, friends and routine is by far the most important reality. Not being able to speak the language and having to deal with different sets of rules is a major hurdle for many. Being uncertain about new friends and one's effectiveness and position is another barrier.

... Most people recover from this period of uncertainty after a few months at the most. They will begin to make certain surface adjustments, acquire new hobbies and habits, and settle amongst a new circle of friends. However do remember that after a prolonged and happy period overseas, most people will suffer from a reverse culture shock when they return home. So be prepared.

It is further argued that when expatriates remain overseas well beyond the traditional two to three years ... period, they undergo a second culture shock, which is far more reaching than the first. The experience induces a more profound change in their personality, attitudes and perspectives on both their own culture and the host culture. This is sometimes referred to as going native where the expatriate begins to enjoy staying away and dreads going home. ... The key lesson here is that expatriates need to maintain strong contact with home bases, irrespective of their expatriation periods."
from Understanding the Arab Culture by Dr Jehad Al-Omari.

So for all my bravado it seems that the work of adjusting to being away is not done. Well, no matter, at least the food is good!

Information sourced from wikipedia and FYI Dubai (November edition)